This is awesome part of the coast to ride, with great views and several detours. The bus schedule to/from Tillamook pretty much requires spending the night at one end of the ride or the other. To get the earliest start, I recommend catching the Amtrak Point Bus from Portland’s Union Station to Cannon beach.
You can start with breakfast in Cannon beach before heading south on highway 101. You’ll pass through a tunnel after Arch cape and wind up through the coastal woods of Oswald West State Park. The park is named after the governor responsible for Oregon’s public coast line.
As you exit the park, you’ll be treated to an awesome coastal view from the Neahkanie mountain overlook. Don’t let the name scare you; it’s at the base of the cliff, not the top. Once you’ve been awe inspired, continue on to the town of Manzanita.
I highly recommend adding the extra 2 miles to loop through this seaside hamlet. To do this, turn right on Nehalem road following the signs to the beach. You’ll ride right along the beach before turning back through town, where you can stop for a snack or groceries before returning to highway 101 to Nehalem.
As you continue south on 101, you go around a few turns and over a few hills before riding through the town of Nehalem. There’s not much to it, but views of Nehalem bay and the surrounding mountains come into view as you continue to the little village of Wheeler. I’ve stopped here several times to eat or just hang out along the waterfront. It is a tranquil respite that most miss as they speed to the better known coastal destinations.
Wheeler is followed by Rockaway beach, then Ghirabaldi at either end of an excursion train. Half way between the town is Barview, the location of a massive coastal campground. Beyond Barview, the Tillamook Bay opens up. There are several great views alongside the road, including the three trees.
Upon leaving Ghirabaldi, you cross the Miami river and complete the final miles as you come into Tillammook. As everyone knows, you can make a quick stop to visit the cheese factory while you’re there.
You can stay in town or head out to the town of Oceanside, one of my favorite getaways on the coast. It is home to the best restaurant on the coast. Just beyond town is the lighthouse which, while in itself is not impressive, sits perched above a cove that asks as a swirling cauldron as waves careen off its steep sides.
You can catch the return bus in town.